Brazier from a wheel without welding
When I purchased my SUV, I discovered that there was a "dead" spare wheel in the trunk (I forgot to say about it before buying). I did not know what to do with it, and left it lying in the trunk, until one day I had an interesting idea - to make a brazier out of it. I didn’t know how to make metal, so I had to be creative, but I had to make sure that any components used for the assembly could withstand the heat (i.e., no nickel or galvanized coatings). Here is a list of tools and materials that I personally used it, but this project can easily be adapted to individual individual preferences. The base can be made of a wooden pallet or other wood-based lumber, and if you don’t have any desire to make it, you can pour the brazier with concrete and adjust the height with a piece of pipe of the desired length. In general, there are many options. Tools:
- Grinding machine.
- Miter saw.
- Planer (optional).
- Wheel disc
- High-temperature paint - 2 cans
- Bars 100x100x2500mm
- M16 bolts - 4 pieces
- Screw set for wood M12 - 4 pieces
- Steel pipe diameter 48 mm - 450 mm long
- Threaded rods M12 - 2 pieces
- Grill Grill (various sizes) - 1 or 2 pieces
- Wheels - 4 pieces
The heaviest part of the work
Without a doubt, this is the most unpleasant part of the work - removing the rubber from the disk. After watching a few videos and trying to do everything on theory, I eventually just took an electric hacksaw, cut the tire's side, and then somehow took it off with a hairpin and a long screwdriver. Having freed the disc from the rubber, I took it to the local sandblast where I was allowed to process it myself.By the time it took about 11 minutes, and it cost less than 600 rubles (800 rubles if the master does the work).
Details and painting
I purchased all the necessary components in the local building store. I bought the pipe and cut it there. The flange of the pipe, which will be installed on a wooden base, will not have to be modified, because here we will use the setscrews of the required diameter. But the flange, which will attach the disk to the pipe, should have holes of a slightly larger diameter (they will have to be drilled), so that the bolts with a wider head will fit into it. Next comes the painting.Personally, I used a special high-temperature paint Rustoleum High Heat. The coating occurs on the same principle as with any other spray paint. I painted all the details in two layers. I wrapped the paper on the wheel bearings before painting so that they would not clog with enamel.
Prepare the base
The disk itself is quite heavy, so the base should also be quite massive. I wanted to make it the same weight as the disk, while I needed to keep compactness, so I decided to use bars of 100x100 mm. I cut them with a saw so that the base was eventually square. Then I drilled holes in the ends of the bars using a wooden guide with pre-drilled grooves. Ideally, I would like to use a drilling machine so that the holes are exactly the same, but since I did not have it, I took a regular drill. Then I put the threaded rods through the holes, then polished the finished base. Then I put the gaskets on the threaded rods, screwed the washers on top and cut off all the excess with the bulgarian. After that, I drilled (and polished) the holes for the set screws from above and for the wheels from the bottom. At the end, it only remained to cover the base with impregnation and a layer of protective varnish.
pipe and base
To fix the flange of the pipe to the disc I used bolts with a smooth bonnet(as wide as possible). It is necessary to make the bolt heads touch the central rim of the disc. It may seem that this fastening is rather weak, but as soon as I tightened the nuts, it became clear that the design does not give any backlash. I closed the hole in the pipe with a special cap under the size so that the ash did not get inside. I also processed the plug with high-temperature paint. The pipe is screwed into the flange from one end, and into the flange of the base - from the other. The flange of the base is fixed with bolts and washers. I also painted them.
The grill turned out to be quite massive, so I decided to fasten the wheels from the bottom for more convenient movement of the structure. I used a valve hole on the disk to fix it hook, then fastened a carabiner on it - you can hang various auxiliary tools (tongs, brush, spatula) on it. Finding grids of suitable size turned out to be problematic, but I searched the Internet and I found the right options. One grid should be compact enough to fit inside and hold the charcoal, and the other wide enough to fit on top and hold food. In principle, one lattice can be enough, since coal can be folded directly onto the metal of the disk (only if it is stainless steel or ordinary steel, and not zinc or galvanized metal), but I thought that the coal could fall out through the holes from the bottom and spoil the wooden base.
I liked both the functionality and the appearance of the resulting brazier. As a person who has not yet learned how to cook metal (but I really would like to), I tried to create a fairly reliable structure with the help of available tools, and I think I succeeded. And also, if you remove the wheels and turn the grill upside down, you can get a rather stylish table.
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