How to make raspberries very much?

The first advice on caring for raspberries is a trellis

Raspberries must be grown only on trellis, this is proved by the experience of millions.
When planted in even rows, when installing pillars and wires, your raspberry can produce 6-8 times more berries every year, and you get the highest possible quality of berries.
All your efforts lose their meaning if your green factory (raspberry plant) is not able to show its natural advantages and draws its existence like wild raspberries.

The second tip for the care of raspberries is an update

Raspberries cannot degenerate, it is impossible biologically. But a lot of summer cottages where raspberries are neglected thickets, and weakened sickly plants of raspberry are called degenerating.
There are many examples when gardeners brought the “degenerate” raspberry into order and again received productive bushes with large berries.
It is necessary to re-mark the rows on the twine, in the row to score pegs on the twine after 70 cm, to destroy all unnecessary,left in the right places plants should get complete care, and in empty places (where there is nothing on the twine) to plant the necessary seedlings.
It is necessary to constantly re-plant new seedlings in 70 cm every 70 cm, and eliminate all excess raspberry plants. It is necessary to increase the growth of the main shoots in the center of the bush and for a year or two good care will return your planting to the harvest and the quality of the berries.

The third advice for the care of raspberries - narrow rows

Raspberry rows should be narrow to 30 cm wide, and inside the row between the bushes should be free space.
The reason for the failure is that often raspberries are grown in the form of a wide strip, where the plants planted by you grow alternately with a mass of plants from the seedlings that have grown on their own.
The biology of raspberries is such that there are always quite a few shoots around the main plant. A raspberry bush is an overgrown sapling planted by us and overgrown with it. Growth is also raspberry, nobody plants it, but every year it grows by itself. For the main crop, the raspberry is a weed, and as with any weed, it must be constantly fought. It is the shoots that take up more than 50% of all the nutrients extracted and produced by the whole raspberry plant.
In practice, raspberry shoots are the enemy of raspberries, which in itself grows annually throughout the life of any raspberry planting. When raspberries are not left on the raspberry, all the main shoots of the raspberry bush are well illuminated by the sun from the bottom to the top, so the crop is also placed along the entire length of the shoot, and not just at the top of the shoot. The berries are well lit by the sun and blown by the wind, so they are much less fungal diseases and insects.
All these advantages you always see on your raspberry seedlings in the second year of life, when they can not be thickened and give many berries all over the shoot from the bottom to the top. We must accustom ourselves to the fact that you can not have a big harvest, if you do not constantly destroy the shoots of raspberries. Destroy shoots with a sharp shovel, pruning them at a depth of 3-5 cm in the ground.

If usually in raspberry varieties Kirzhach in thickened planting 6-8 berries are formed on each fruit branch, then on planting, where shoots are regularly removed, 8-14 and even 18 berries are formed on each lateral.
In the absence of sprouts, the root system works to strengthen the development of shoots of bush replacement, the basis of the crop and its quality.The berries are larger, sweeter and better performed. On each fruit branch (lateral) there are more berries, and there are also more laterals on the shoot.
If we regularly remove the shoots, then on the Kirzhach plantation from the first to the last harvest the berries almost do not shrink, their taste remains typical sweet, and even in rainy weather there is almost no decay on the berries and they remain in good quality longer.
In addition to common failures, it is useful to remember simple tips. Raspberries in itself is such a culture, which has a large fan of leaves above the ground, and roots are only 10-20 cm in the upper soil horizon. That is why the frequent drying of the soil greatly affects the “well-being” of raspberry plants, and the raspberry shoots that have experienced bad situations the next year, instead of 30-35, give only 8-10 branches with berries. It seems there is no destruction of the bush, but there is almost no harvest. And then it is clear that the harvest of this year is very dependent on the living conditions of the runaway in the previous year, and therefore poor care of this year is the foundation of the bad harvest for the next year. That is biology.

Manure advice

The advice is very old and now that there is almost no manure,it is necessary to try the raspberries to give all the compost from the garbage heap, from the heap of rotted weeds, from the possible import of peat or any organic matter. Neither apple nor currant is so depressed in the absence of organic matter, as is evident on raspberries. In natural conditions, in the absence of organic matter in the field, raspberry does not grow at all, but grows on the fringes of the forest with an abundance of rotted leaves and other material. A man like everything knows, but this is not enough, it is necessary to withstand the natural requirements of raspberries and mulch raspberry bushes with some plant material.

Raspberries creep along the site

Such is its biology, against nature it may not be necessary to do something. Not such a great problem every year in May and June twice to walk and a sharp shovel to cut all the shoots, wherever it does not arise. It is not necessary to dig up each new growth, if you cut it off the ground. If some gardeners dig in slate, metal sheets and say that they do not crawl raspberries, so at the same time they have deprived themselves of a bountiful harvest and will have at best only a small portion of the possible harvest of their raspberries.

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